Erica's Blog

Last night, we hit the area by the river with the 8 zillion (OK, sliiiiight exaggeration) vendors to check out the place when it's hopping (as opposed to during the daytime when no sane person would be out).  Lots of fun.  Some cool stuff, some weird stuff, some stupid and tacky stuff.  Lots of fun.

Checked out other vendors as we wended our way around Trastavere.  Ate dinner at a joint on what turned out to be a busy "strolling" path (think crusing on your own two feet).  Went back to the vendors and Hubby bought a cool, surfer-dude-type leather, beads, and jute bracelet.  Had an interesting time communicating with the two guys when Hubby asked Is this hemp?  Of course, it helped that one of the guys was wearing a silly pot t-shirt.  He was totally baffled by what we were talking about -- fatte maglia con the stalk of marijuana.  They said it was cotton, but when I said Cotone?  they looked me like I was nuts, so I think it was jute, not cotton.  Hubby suggested we cut off a length of hemp yarn and give it to them so they'd know.  NoooOOOOOO, I don't think so! 

Looked for The Dancing Nonna, but didn't see her....Oh, I didn't tell you about The Dancing Nonna?  Sorry.  We saw her on Friday night, and she's so funny that Hubby had to videotape her (but she didn't give him the evil eye like the lady in...wherever it was...he filmed making the bird dance).   Anyhow, it was laaate at night, so, of course, there were a million people out, lots of vendors, etc.  Next to a wall, there was this Nonna (uh, that means grandma, not nun).  She had a boom box playing I like to move it, move it.  I like to move it, move it.  She had a basket out for money, and she was dancing.  She was so hysterical, barely moving, that people were totally tickled, and she had a bunch of money in her basket.  Go, Nonna!  When we get back to FL and I can post pictures & video again, I'll put it up.

Anyhow, back to last night.  Bought a little something for the Jenna-sitter.  Wanted to get something for a couple of friends whose birthdays I've missed this month, but didn't see anything right.  Ended up getting to bed just a hair earlier, about 1:00 or 1:30 in the morning.

Today.  Today's Sunday.  Wow, I actually know what day it is!  NO, we didn't go to mass.  We went to the flea market!  We had a very lazy morning and ended up leaving after 12.  As we were heading out to the Trastavere flea market (thanks to Miss Claudia's book that told us about it), we heard a big BOOM.  5 or 10 minutes later, we came out onto a major street, and the Carabinieri were directing traffic, three or four fire trucks were there, some Carabinieri cars, and a news crew.  Apparently, there was a fire or explosion of some kind.  No, I don't think it was splodeys; more likely somebody didn't turn off their gas or something.  We'll see if it hits the news.

Trastavere flea market was very cool.  Almost bought a new bag to take back all the yarn.  The cheap ones are too cheaply made and might fall apart in the cargo hold of the plane.  The good ones we haven't been able to talk the guys down on enough.  Bought some cool buttons that look like millefiori and one to use with the hemp yarn.  Bought a little something for the Things.  Bought an outfit for me.  I really love the look of the Indian blouses that are so popular, but they're WAY too sheer for the likes of me.  I ain't walking around with every detail of my bra and my gut showing, thanks anyhow.  Found a very light cotton top & pants outfit.  Wasn't the color I liked, but they didn't have the short sleeved ones in the hot pink, so I settled for a lavender color.  You'll probably eventually see it in the pictures from tomorrow.

Lunch at an osteria that had been there since 1947.  Nice to see a family-owned joint doing well.

Leisurely walk over to the Pantheon.  Pretty amazing place.  FYI for those who haven't read a bunch of Rome travel books, the dome on there was the inspiration for the dome of the Sistine Chapel and the Duomo in Florence, not to mention a certain big building in Washington, D.C.

Gelato at Giolitti.  Lu, I lost the printout of the email where you told me where to have gelato.  I'm thinking it was probably this place.  It's been there since 1900.  We opted to avoid the insane line and sit and have table service.  Hubby had a nocciato (sp?) coffee drink and a "medium" dish of pera (pear) gelato.  Me, I had a caffe freddo and a "medium" (large is a better word, really) with raspberry on the bottom and champagne on the top.  Oh.  My.  Gourds.  I have no idea how they get the flavors SO intense.  I thought I was going to get tipsy from the champagne, that's how real & intense the flavor was.

Wandered slowly back to the hotel.  Relaxed, evening snacks in the sala.  They have a bunch of games, so Hubby re-taught me how to play backgammon (waaaaaay back in the 70s, I knew how), and we played a couple of games.  Checked email, and here I am.

Tomorrow:  Vatican Museum (Pieta) and St. Peter's Basilica (Sistine Chapel).  In the evening, something special -- a FREE concert in front of the Colosseum by Bryan Adams and Billy Joel.  Yupp.  Free.  We'll have to get there hours early, but it should be fabulous.

Very appropriate that we're seeing the Pieta tomorrow.  I've been feeling so drawn to that sculpture.  Tomorrow is Paul's Angel Day, so I'm sure I'll bawl.  If you don't know what sculpture I'm talking about, it's one of Mary holding Jesus in her lap after he's been taken down off the cross.  Even in pictures, it's amazing, so I know it will be even better in real life (though it's behind glass b/c some idiot took a hammer to it in the 70s).  I really relate to it b/c I know what it's like to hold my son, dead too soon, in my arms.  Yupp.  I was crying this morning, remembering getting the call from the docs to get up to the hospital, all the visitors Paul had, holding him, how he proved them wrong and lived till 1:20 a.m. on the 31st.....Yupp.  Tomorrow's a good day to see that sculpture.

Tuesday, we'll probably tour the Jewish ghetto area (Did you know that for centuries Jews in Rome were confined to a small neighborhood?  Is that insane or what?).  Wednesday, the driver will take us back to the airport.  Hubby's already looking forward to that ride in the amazingly comfortable Mercedes.

Speaking of Hubby, gotta go see if he's asleep or fuming watching CNN about the latest Hezbollah evil stuff.  A domani.

We are really enjoying Roma.  Having 6 nights here really helps b/c we can go at a slow pace.  For example, we haven't even left the hotel yet today.  See, we didn't get back to the hotel till about 2 in the morning, so we slept in a little, had breakfast, changed rooms (we weren't able to get a "regular" double room for the whole time, so we haaaad to stay in a "deluxe" double for the first two nights), did some laundry, then fell asleep watching CNN and sports stuff. 

Yesterday, we left around noon and made our way up to the Palatine Hill/Colisseum area.  Tip:  Pay the €22 apiece to get the "archaelogical pass".  This gives you access to 9 different places for 7 days.  You get to bypass the hideous "waiting to buy a ticket" lines, etc.  Even if you're only interested in 3 of the sites, you save €7 each.  If you go to more, you save more.  We took our time and did the self-guided Rick Steves tour of Palatine Hill.  We were really glad we weren't part of an organized tour b/c we were able to go at our own pace, backtrack, etc.  It was great to see "the birthplace of Rome" -- how often do you get to look at the remains of Iron Age homes?  Had some serious brain snappage trying to imagine the palace as it was when it was whole.  Even the ruins and the segments of marble floor that were in the museum were just amazing.  Standing in the throne room on the spot where the emperor sat and reading the description of what the entry and throne room had been like was pretty awe-inspiring.  "Wow" Moment:  In the Palatine Museum, they had a portion of a column with an inscription dedicating it "To An Unknown God."  Wow.  This was one of those "I feel like I just stepped into the New Testament, into what for some is a classic, oft-referenced story in the book of Acts (look it up, folks, look it up) moments.

After the hill, we grabbed a bite to eat to tide us over till dinner time, and we sat and watched the other tourists near the Colisseum.  Hubby wanted to watch the pickpockets in action to get a better understanding of how to avoid them (Rick Steves makes a big deal about them in his book), but we didn't see the slightest sign of them.  By the time we tried to hit the Forum to do the self-guided tour, it was closed.  Learning:  Learned something thought-provoking from the book (one of the benefits of having it).  The Arch of Titus was built in celebration of the devastation of Jerusalem and destruction of Solomon's temple in 70 AD.  He brought 50,000 Jewish slaves back, and those slaves were made to build the Arch and the Colisseum.  Changed my perspective on the Arch and certainly made me like it less.  As I turned it all over in my mind, it made me think about how for every devastating, culture-changing defeat a people suffers, there is someone celebrating a victory.  Yet, without the Diaspora, both Judaism and Christianity would not have spread so far around the world.  Such a crime, though.  Imagine being able to go to Jerusalem and actually visit Solomon's Temple.  Wouldn't that just blow your mind?  That would have been surreal.

Walk back to the hotel, turn the AC back on (we'd turned it off in attempt to dry some laundry), hit the sala for antipasti.  Back to the room, shower, relax, nap.  Dragged ourselves out of bed at 9:30 and hit the streets to do the Rick Steves Night Walk Across Rome.  Conclusions:

• Doing this on a Friday (yesterday was Friday, right??) was a great choice.  Much more "local color" around, though at times we felt too old for the scene.
• We really liked the piazza with the Four Rivers Fountain (name escapes me at the moment).  Fountain was cool (even literally - temperature noticeably cooler when you get within a couple of feet of the fountain), lots of artists and "color".  Area was even still jumping when we returned, hours later.
• We really liked the Trevi Fountain.  A metric buttload (that's a scientific term, folks) of people there, but we still liked it.  Rick Steves had a funny line about Lucky Casanovas clutch dates; unlucky ones clutch beers.  A zillion Indian/Pakistani guys trying to sell roses.  They are SO persistent.  Dutch guy next to us had a good response, Don't you have a wife or a girlfriend?  Why don't you take your roses to her?  Later, Hubby thought of another good response:  Which is prettier, my wife or your rose?  Then why would I want to buy a rose?  Awwww.....  By the end of the night, we were pretty irritated with these guys, esp. b/c they are everywhere.  Everywhere.
• Pantheon was really impressive.  Made us eager to go see it in the daytime.
• Spanish Steps were no big deal.  We didn't stay very long.  The steps by the "commie bar" in Catania were much more interesting and fun, probably b/c a) the people there were mostly locals, and b) it was by a bar, so you could get a drink.
• Doing such a walk at night is a very good idea.  Even though it was late, our clothes were sticking to us from the heat.
• There's nothing quite like sitting down in a pizzeria and ordering a pizza at 12:15 a.m. 

Tip:  Get two different books and a good map.  The Rick Steves book is very good, and his comments are often amusing, but his maps aren't very good.  The book Miss Claudia lent us (sorry, can't remember who publishes it) is good, has some good explanations, great pictures, and very good maps.  The map the hotel gave us is so-so.  The "Street-Wise Rome" map Miss Claudia lent us is great.  Many times, Hubby worked off two maps at once. Navigating around can be a bit challenging b/c the streets don't run straight, and neither does the river, so when you think you're heading a certain direction, you might not be.  Related Tip:  When you travel, make sure at least one person in your group is good with maps.  If I were here on my own, I'd be spending a pile of money on taxis b/c there's no way I'd be able to find my way around.

By the time we got back, my dogs were barkin' (especially where my bum foot broke when I was 34 weeks pregnant with Thing Two).  Rinsed ourselves off and went to bed.  The rest, you know....

In a fairly random order...

Synthetics.  Avoid them in the summer heat.  Duh.  Before our trip, I bought a "travel dress" that turned out to be mostly synthetic.  Sure, it dries quickly if you wash it in the hotel room sink.  It also causes every part of your body to sweat when you are wearing it -- even parts you didn't know HAD sweat glands.  Don't.  Be.  Taken.  In.  Don't.  Do.  It.  Linen.  That's what I've learned, partly from looking around and partly from my own sufferings.  Linen.  Linen dresses.  Linen slacks and shirts.  Linen.  Linen.  More linen.  Wonder if I can buy any today?

You'll be amazed what can make you feel at home/miss home.  I walked into the breakfast room this morning, and the first words I heard were Oh-oh.  I immediately smiled and felt at home, looking around for the Filipino I knew had to be nearby.  Yupp.  One of the breakfast room waiter guys was talking on the phone and was clearly Filipino.  Made it feel just like home.  Hubby had nearly the same experience, except it made him miss home.

Don't underestimate the importance of a good map.  The Rick Steves books have pretty inadequate maps.  The free one the hotel gave us was pretty good, but the one Miss Claudia lent us us great. 

When the guide books tell you to bring a spare pair of eyeglasses with you, DO IT.  As I lay down to relax and air out after sweating...I mean walking...around the city last night, I saw a little screw from my glasses fall out, and the left sidebar (OK, I know there's a real word for it, but I don't remember it) fell off.  Thank goodness I had a spare pair in my suitcase.

Newskin.  Buy a bottle.  Keep it with you at all times.  About 10 minutes before we made it back last night, a new hole ripped open on my left foot.  Painted it up with Newskin after we got back, and now I'm good to go.

Sitting in a quiet room in Roma, enjoying some free (for once!) internet access while Hubby naps and mulling over some observations on travel in La Bella Sicilia e La Bella Italia....

• Toilets:  You'd think a toilet is a toilet is a toilet.  Nope.  Coming from The Land of Droughts and Mandatory Water Conservation, I really like the toilets here.  Not as much water in the bowl to start, but when you flush, massive amounts of water at great pressure.  Many toilets even have two flusher buttons - one for when you need some water/force, and another for when you need...uh...more.
• Dehydration:  If you come here in the summertime, drink a lot of water.  Excuse me - drink a LOT of water.  If you're feeling loopy and like your tongue is too big for your mouth, and you haven't even sampled the vino yet, you're already dehydrated.  Drink a bunch of water so you don't end up in the ospedale or something.
• Driving:  Italians aren't such crazy drivers as Sicilians...or is it that I've just gotten used to it now?
• Walking:  Just keep telling yourself, They know not to hit me.
• Euros:  Better save up before you come over here.  You will burn through those € fast, fast, fast, especially at the current rate of exchange for $US.
• Art: 
• • You get burnt out on Catholic church art very fast unless you are a) hard-core Catholic or b) an art student.
  • Why, oh why does everyone in all these paintings of Jesus, et al look like a WASP (not even Italian!), and why do they all wear the attire contemporary of the time they were painted?  How come not a single one of these people looks Israeli?   Why aren't they wearing attire a la the Middle East in the first century A.D.?
• Marriage:  If you are going to be away from home for five whole weeks, at some point in that time, you will most likely have a decent-sized fight with your spouse.  Accept it, and pray that it doesn't happen out in public or something.
• Here to There:  Paying for your Roman hotel to send a guy in a Mercedes to pick you up from the airport instead of trying figure out how to get from the airport to Trastavere is a good thing.
• Zibibbo IS good.
• So is Chianti Classico.

As I type this, I am sitting in a VERY hot, non-air-conditioned internet point in Firenze.  I have 15 minutes left on my time, so I'll have to make this brief.  Can't upload pictures from here, so I'll have to wait till we get back to FL.

LA BELLA SICILIA:

Ah, Sicilia!  After about a 2-hour delay from Philly to Rome, we made it to Catania.  The car rental agency we used didn't appear to exist, and none of the existing ones had heard of them or had a reservation for us, so we took a cab to our B&B.  Luckily, we found a guy who didn't rip us off -- €20 to the B&B (exchange rate is about $1.25 per €1).  Call Zib.  Cold shower.  Met them "at the elephant's ball" at 6:00.  Back to the B&B by the unholy early hour of 9:00.  By the second day, we had gotten into the Sicilian rhythm:  up in the a.m. to do stuff, nap (riposo) in the afternoon, dinner at 8:00 or 9:00 or later, out late, back to the room at about 2:00.  Well, we weren't up that late every night, but we were up late.  Local market, the beach, Mt. Etna (couldn't get as close as we wanted, the guys took an over-priced tour), Taormina, drinking Zibibbo....we had a blast.  And then there was the spinning lesson!  Yupp, I got a lesson in spinning.  Once I'm able to, I'll post a picture of me & my little hanklette.  Zib, the Man, and Kiddo are wonderful.  Zib said the second day or so that she felt bad, that they weren't good tour guides, but as Hubby put it "Sicily is about friendship."  It was great to take an online friendship and into the "real world".  Apparently, despite some initial fears that we might be boring, weirdo "church people" a la some of the stereotypes (no names, but think young guys in suits and ties with name tags beginning "Elder"), we passed muster.  We're already scheming about the next trip with a week in a villa to the south.  Biggest highlights of Taormina = yarn, and the bearded lady.  For pics, see Zib's blog.

TUSCANY:

OK, I'm nearly out of minutes.

• Siena - too touristy, too much English, but pretty; had fun getting caught in a thunderstorm
• Pisa - very touristy, but fun to get the classic holding up the tower picture
• Bagno a Ripoli - nice little small town with some amazing gelato
• Firenze - glad we took the bus instead of driving; the David is amazing; missed Jerry Springer by about an hour; got some cool yarn

Ciao!

We leave in the morning.  Woo hoo!  La Bella Sicilia, here we come!

Spent a couple of hours at the local urgent care today, making sure that my nose/cough/stomach thing wasn't anything to be worried about and get any needed antibiotics.  Not very impressed with the doc, I'm afraid.  Anyhow, he says it's just a cold, and the stomach stuff is probably from the other meds.  No prescriptions, but gave me a long list of OTC stuff.  I also switched from sugar-free cough drops to regular b/c I know sugar-free candy can cause...gastric distress, to put it politely.

Laundry in the dryer.  Maybe one tiny last load to do so we have enough underwear. 

Gave each of the Things a necklace today to wear while we're gone to remind them that we're always with them, always thinking of them.  Thing One's has a dog w/a bone, and Thing Two's has a cat with blue crystal eyes.  They loved them.  Told them when they miss us, they can touch their necklaces. 

Did all the legal stuff -- printed out and signed the official "authority to authorize medical care" thing and printed and signed our wills.  Local resident notary notarized them for free (nepotism!).  Kinda weird. 

Well, gotta go take some more Pepto/Immodium, toss in that last mini laundry load and snuggle the Things.  I'll be checking my email from time to time, and I may get to blog once in a while.  In 48 hours, We'll be chillin' in La Bella Sicilia with Zib, the Man, and Kiddo!  Woo hoo!  Arrivaderci!

This is the project I started the last night in TX, which I worked on from TX to FL (well, part of the way).

When I got some sense and realized I didn't have nearly enough of the denim color to do the whole sweater, I started tossing in an occasional row of white.  I think it looks OK.  I'm hoping that the Peaches & Creme I got today will go blend in all right.  What do you think?

Oh, and this is for Jubal & Nichole's baby boy, due October 30th.  I'll probably make something else kind of funky (hemp yarn?), but this is for starters.

OK, so here's Shawna's sweater, which I finished knitting while we were in TX, but didn't weave in the ends yet.

Here's my dilemma:

Grandma, Things, and I went to Wally World & the craft store today.  Look what followed me home from Wally World:

Yupp, Peaches & Creme -- one-pound cones, even!  Good thing I don't have a Wally World near me at home.  Well, maybe.  I found out yesterday that our friends Luis & Marianella are expecting "a little surprise from heaven" in about five months.  BIG surprise, as their sons are in middle school & high school.  They're hoping for a girl this time.  I'm thinking the yellow & white variegated would make a cute Baby Kimono or other baby item for their new addition.

Now, here's the question:

Got up early today -- 9:20 a.m.    Things watched kid shows all morning (the joys of expanded cable).  Hubby left to play 18 holes.  Grandma & Grandpa came home early b/c Grandpa's ear infection was making him too dizzy to stand up.  Grandma, Things & I spent time in the pool.  I gave up earliest.  Later, when Hubby came home, he joined them.  The Things spent so much time out there, they had to get two layers of sunscreen.  Eventually, made Thing One put on a t-shirt over her bathing suit b/c her shoulders were just too bad off. 

Filet mignon, baked taters w/trimmings, salad, veggies, and Grandma's famous sugar-free jello mixed with whipped cream for dessert.  I asked her about the sugar-free pudding yesterday that tasted too good to be true, and it was.  She took the sugar-free, fat-free pudding and made it with whipping cream instead of non-fat milk.  Yikes!  Why, you say?  One word:  Atkins.  Yupp.  Apparently -- and this makes NO sense to me at all -- whipping cream has no carbs, but non-fat milk does.  Makes NO sense.  Why would taking AWAY fat and cream ADD carbs?  I don't get it (sorry, Mrs. R; I know those words are forbidden in the classroom).  Where DO we agree?  (Insert 1940's or 1950's music) Drinkin' rum and Coca-Cola (hat-tip to Knitting Magic Girl for the info that it's only 2 Points).

Today's pictures here.  Tomorrow...maybe the beach.  Maybe not.  Thanks to Andy, Hubby and I have a hot tip on a fabulous sushi place not far away that we need to check out this weekend.  (Aside to Andy:  Hubby and I may visit your "alma mater" on Sunday.  Whaddayathink?   You vote yes or no?)